Saturday, January 15, 2005

11/jan a rainy day

It's so interesting to walk in the streets of kolkata. Everything is so new. But it's still more adventutous to walk in these broken streets if it has been raining during the night.
Imagine all the dirty streets, full of trash, shit, open air sewers (clavagueram). sand and dust. A lot of everything. Now, add water in big quantities, and the result it's a kind of disgusting soup, full of things floating all around. Of course, a black soup. And this in the dry season. I was told, or maybe read somewhere that during the rainy season, the streets of kolkata have from 20 to 30 centimeters if water. And it's just then when the rickshaws became the kings of the road. The are very high so the water (the one on the ground) will never touch the client. But imagine as well the man that runs the rickshaw. Running barefoot (descalc), steping who knows where, and covered only with a plastic bag. They charge more money, but still...
So well, all these things happening, make me feel that it was the same many years ago, and I see myself traveling in one of the paul bowles books, It could be memories d'un nomada. In the early '20, a trip to india was a long trip, feeling all the different steps of travel, and seeing thousands of things changing. I guess this india has unfotunately a lot to do with that india. Things change very slow. And paul bowles it's defining all these differences in a very personal and touching way, of course from a burgeois point of view.
So all these colors, atmospheres, lights, poeple, clothes... are still present. Possible mixed with a touch of western way of life, but only a little. (no mc donalds!!!) And if you add to all these things the lack of turist, the cars, riclshaws, bazaars... it's almost unavoidable to feel that you are not in the 2005 anymore.
And the rain. This rain it's appearing and disappearing every second, passing from the '0' rain to a very strong one. So fast.
And as you can imagine as well, the noise, if it's possible, is worst. Too loud. Non stop. And you are all black. Sandals, pants...
But the city doesn't stop at all!!! This is so amazing.
And the light after the rain ...
Today I've seen a very beautifull indian girl, hided behing her saree. But you still could see the dark brown color of her skin, in constrast with the huge eyes, the whitest teeth, kong black hair, and the red spot, just in the middle of the fronthead. Here again, it's possible to see this bubble they are living in. So clean and elegant in this dirty and muddy kolkata. Of course, was to hard for me to pass this bubble, and I just saw her disappearing.
After that, we have 'discovered' the best cafe ever. It's in a broken building, dark and dirty outside. A coffee cooperative. A place frequented by students, and intelectuals, where the waiters wear a white uniform, and an strange hat. Double space with an internal balcony, that makes you feel outdoors. Like a kind of square. High walls, grey, possibly never painted in the last 100 years. And a very strange light as well, probably because of the humidity, the smoke and incense, and the late time of the afternoon light, creating alltogether a kind of mistical atmosphere. Of course only in my head. My head is traveling and traveling since I came to india, and always in the past.
(sound from the mosques, muslim prayers)

Today we've been in college street. It's an area full of bookshops and schools. And I've bought a classic. City if joy, from dominique lapierre, talking about anonimous heroes, living limit situations. And everything is happening in kolkata, and it's slums. Let's see, I'm excited about starting.
Yesterday I felt for the first time my stomach complaining about something, with the first diarreas. Is this going to see the begining of bad times?? I hope no. But roday I was feeling perfect again, Maybe was a reaction against the spicy food, (not that spicy), or maybe against the indian food. Delicious. But dangerous at the same time. One have to follow a few rules to avoid potencial problems. Water, cleaning hands... but not much more. I'll do my best without forgeting that I'm in india now, and that I will spend problaly 6 to 10 months. Let's see!
We went to the cinema, to see alexander. It was a good entertainment, and the last part happened in india. 1 entrance 30 RS (.6 euro). This is a democratic cinema!

15/1/05

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