Friday, March 11, 2005

22/feb indian hair & pallam town

I woke up in the darkest darkness. Madikeri like many other cities in India suffers habitual electricity cuts. And in a room without window, and without flashlight nor candles… but a cold shower (15 degrees inside the room) made me see things brighter and took the laziness out of me! Bought ‘the times of india’ only RS 3 and had breakfast in a nice Indian bar. Places are not touristic at all here. I would love to feel the same warmness in the bars of Barcelona, where is hard to be treated as an habitual costumer. This happens here after only a couple of times! In the bus to bekal, north of kerala, I made this amazing discovery; all (and I say all) Indian women have black hair. And the same happens with Indian men. And again, all Indian women have a long plait (trena). The only women with short hair are the widows, in rememberance of their husband. The life of a widow in India is supposed to be very hard, they can be just left away, and finish begging very easily. IN kolkata, things were a little bit different. The fashion, in men, was to dye their hair reddish, some color between red and orange.
The bus trip is nice, relaxed, and with great views over the coffee plantations first, and palms trees and the canals at the end, where the weather is different as well, much hotter and humid. I’ve seen for the first time a very strange kind of palmtrees; They are very high, and the trunk is absolutely vertical, and very thin. They look like metal pillars. On the top, small palm leaves. The trunk reminds me the bamboo trunk, with all those partitions. The proportions are great, they are elegant!! I’ve also seen a family of monkeys, 6 or 7 sitting on a tree, watching cars passed very peacefully.
In the bus I’m the only non-indian again, and there are plenty of hindus, but also many muslims. North of kerala is supposed to be a muslim area.
I decided to stay in a nice hotel (RS90) in pallam, a town on the main road, 2km far from the beach. I verify that the area is mostly muslim, 60% muslim, and 38% hindu. The rest Christians. The room is great, the biggest and cleanest one I’ve been so far, and the owner seems to be nice.
I went to the beach, and there I realized that this is a non-touristic place. Kilometers of empty beach, surrounded by mangroves on one side, and that huge Arabian sea in the other, very wavy and moved. No buildings at all, only one or two hundred meters from the shore. After walking one hour, I found a fisherman. IT came to my head that beach in brasil, the naturist beach I forgot the name, but I feel safer here. After a while, a river crosses the beach, and in that crossing there are lots of birds, and eagles. I met there 7 muslims, very funny people, and they told me to take a picture altogether. Everything is great here!! It’s like a small paradise, where people is friendly, landscape pleasant, temperature good… After say bye, I started going up, following the river. There were rice fields on one side, and fishermen the other. Then I crossed the train rails, and I reached home after a little bit more than one hour, feeling lost for a while, too close to the sinset time.
I don’t know to how many people did I say hi today!!
And another nice feeling I had, was that I always see these people, these villages and surroundings from the train, and now, passing by the train, when I was waiting to cross the rails, Irealized that I was one more character, not only observer. I was also part of the landscape, an active part.

11/3/05

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